Final print result

What all six parts look like assembled together, before any electronics go in.

IvoChess Clock v2.0 case, fully assembled from the printed parts

Printable parts

Six parts, each its own STL file — print them separately rather than as one big model.

Main case part, rendered from the STL model

Main case

The main body that houses the board, display, LEDs, and battery.

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LED diffuser part, rendered from the STL model

LED diffuser

A thin insert that sits over the status LEDs and spreads their light evenly. Print this one in transparent filament for the best light effect — if you can't get transparent, white is the next best option.

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Top cover part, rendered from the STL model

Top cover

Closes up the top of the case over the display and button.

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ESP32 mount part, rendered from the STL model

ESP32 mount

A small internal bracket that holds the microcontroller board fixed in place inside the case.

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Button part, rendered from the STL model

Button

Sits on top of the physical button so it's flush and comfortable to press.

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Button pin part, rendered from the STL model

Button pin

Two small pins that get glued onto the button part to complete the assembly — see the diagram below.

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Gluing the button pins

The button pin part has two pins that don't get printed already attached — glue them on yourself, in exactly these two spots:

Diagram showing the two glue points for the button pins, each marked GLUE HERE

Glue both pins in the marked locations before fitting the button assembly into the case — a small dot of super glue or plastic-safe adhesive on each is enough.

Material & color

The LED diffuser should be printed in transparent filament for the best light effect — it's the one part that relies on the plastic itself to spread the LED light evenly. If you can't get transparent filament, white is the next best option; avoid dark or fully opaque colors for this part, they'll hide the light almost completely. None of the other five parts have any color constraint — print those in whatever you like.

PLA

What the original was printed in — easy to print, good detail, holds up fine for a desk accessory that doesn't see heat or rough handling.

PETG

Also a good choice if you'd prefer it — a bit tougher and more heat-resistant than PLA, slightly better light diffusion in some filament brands. Either works well here.

Print settings

Nothing unusual here — none of these are mechanically demanding parts. Standard settings for your printer and filament work fine across all of them:

Prefer something simpler?

A one-piece, no-frills case for anyone who just wants the e-paper display and doesn't need the physical button, LEDs, or sound — a little smaller and lighter than the full v2.0 case.

The simplified single-piece case, no button/LED/speaker cutouts

Simplified case

One STL, one print — no button, LED strip, or speaker to wire in, just the display, Wi-Fi, and battery. If you build this version, skip the button/LED/speaker parts on the hardware list and their wiring in the soldering guide.

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